Naked Eve V - Full view & Keyboard repair


#21

@yan78
Awsome work!
You gave me the courage to start thinking about repairing my keyboard (after finding some time :slightly_smiling_face:).


#22

Also, I requested a replacement on December 13th but mine was defective almost from the time I got it last March and I have asked for a replacement then but was asked for proof pretty much and decided to deal with the issues but a few months ago it went completely out and now I’m waiting on a replacement and… communication from the company! That’s why I’m asking has anyone been waiting on replacements for a long time? Tired of using the onscreen keyboard lol.


#23

Sent proof of not working keyboard (video) Support answered in roughly 5 days.


#24

So, do you have or are you waiting on a replacement??


#25

Yep, Keyboard went after new year from OKOK to bad to usb to empty battery = 0.
Got a replacement promise.
Pogo pins are ok, so I suppose that it is the ribbon cable. :no_mouth:


#26

I’m in exactly the same situation as you.
Damn this keyboard – it’s the only bad thing about the V. :roll_eyes:


#27

Yan78 showed the ribbon weakness.
As said, I may give an intervention a try. That will be after cleaning the garden after two months absence (the teak tree gained +6 meters :cold_sweat:)


#28

Hey Yan, thanks for your message and help!

I tried to sold the cables, but its really hard because the solder machine is too hot and it burns the plastic part of the cable. My Idea is to glue it, because I did a plastic plataform as a base for the cables and it become stronger, almost like a new cable.
If you can help me, check the fotos please. Do you know some kind of glue that has eletric conduction? I found one on Amazon from China (Silver Conductive Glue Wire Electrically Paste Adhesive Paint PCB Repair), but I don’t know if it could works…
What do you think?


#29


#30

You may need a outfit with a very fine soldering tip to avoid over heating. If the plastic isolation is questional after soldering the wires, it is possible to reinforce it by applying a non conducting (silicone?) putty/glue (keep the wires apart during application!) to reinstore correct isolation.
I did not work on the V keyboard cable (yet), but soldered quite a number of tricky flat cables this way. Al these actions are off course at your own risk. . .


#31

Is the film being used heat-resistant?
PET is stretched, so many are deformed as soon as heat is applied.When using it where heat is applied, use extruded PET.or I think that it is good to use Kapton(Polyimide) tape.

The soldering iron is also important, it is good to use a ceramic heater that has a large heat capacity and temperature can be adjusted.
Recommended soldering iron is HAKKO FX-600 (in Japan,other countries do not understand)

Conductive adhesive is …
The room temperature curing type is easy to crack or has high resistance, so it is better not to use it.
I only know the thermosetting type of conductive adhesive that can be used in such a place that necessary to bend.(Just because I do not know, there may be a high performance conductive adhesive.)

Thermosetting type is difficult for ordinary people to deal with.
· Control of curing temperature
· Storage location / temperature management
· Mixing liquids
· Pinpoint coating
maybe I think that soldering is easier.
It is done very beautifully.Good luck to the end!
I’ll keep my fingers crossed.(^人^)


#32

How many of you have requested a replacement and how long have you been waiting?


#33

I got a shipping email and mine said it should come tomorrow.


#34

How long did you have to wait? I mean when did you request and when did you get your shipping email? Are you in America?

Thanks


#35

The Hakko fx-600 is an outstanding professional unit, but at a very professional pricing too :disappointed_relieved: .
I use a Basetech starter 48w soldering iron, it was 10$.
Does ok for occasional soldering, even on electronic boards.