[merged topic] Battery bank compatibility with the V



By the way, here’s proof that QC does not work with USB PD:

It got stuck at 5V/1A as the USB default, because PD and QC can’t communicate to each other. There is a small chance that the charger might misinterpret the tablet’s signals and output a higher voltage, potentially “confusing” the tablet’s charging circuot and breaking something, which is why there should be a disclaimer above all your posts. Yes we are “grown ups” here, but that doesn’t mean an arbitrary buyer who visits this forum will be, too. Even though legally nor you nor Eve are responsible for their damage, even though the chance of it is low, I wouldn’t want this burden on my neck, I’m sure you don’t want it either.

Sorry for getting back on this topic, but I found a proof and wanted to share it. If you have counter-arguments, feel free to shoot out.


Just to mention: On the Omni pro 20 there are 2 USB outputs. Only one of them has QC and it is marked. The other one is a “normal” USB Charging Port! Then you also have the Barrel Plug, which you can self adjust (and it turns off if it goes over the adjusted Value) also without QC and you have the AC output where you can just plug in your V`s charger. Efficient or not but there are possibilities charging your V without damage it!


Yes, but why get this inefficient one when you can get the other one for less than 1/3 of the price…


Because the V is not my only device and quite a lot of the features from the omni are useful for me!


Makes sense… But feeding plain “dumb” 9V into the tablet still seems dangerous to me :smile:


You don’t have to if you don’t want that :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


Still, I believe all such suggestions should only go with a disclaimer :slight_smile:



it does support it!

It is a switching power supply and 240V AC sin wave has a max voltage of 300 V so if you feed 300V DC it will just go through the supply and won’t need the AC/DC conversion which is the first step in that power supply.
It will just pass through the power supply rectifier.


That is good to know :slight_smile: Thanks!


So I would love a cheaper power bank than anything suggested here that could charge my V and a microusb phone. I’d like to play on the safe side of my warranty. I also do not care about power loss through DC AC DC

It can have 10,000mah for all I care. It’s about a boost. I realistically want it more for my phone and a Nintendo switch, than I do for the V… But sure isn’t it good to stay open to all devices.

Amazon is proving to be exceptionally annoying in my search. What might I “search” for. I know nothing of USB protocols. I’ve tried searching for “power bank PD”

Edit: Paul I can’t afford the one you’ve suggested up higher in the thread.


A simple 5V/2A power bank will extend the battery life. If 10000mAh is enough for you (that would be 37000Wh, almost 80% of V’s battery), it would cost around $15, like this one:

It shows up more expensive on Amazon for some reason, but I bought it for around 12EUR here. But there are plenty to choose from, just look out for “Quick Charge” or current above 2.4A, as that might damage your tablet.
Another thing to worry about is the speed of charging. If you want it to be fast, you’ll need the one that I linked before. I know it’s expensive, but for some reason I haven’t seen any cheaper options… With this kind of power banks (like the Adata), quick recharges won’t be possible. They will just keep the tablet running while they’re connected.


mWh, right? And wouldn’t it be about 50Wh if it’s 10000mAh at 5V? Not really my area of expertise :stuck_out_tongue:


Hah, spot on! It’s either 37000mWh or 37Wh :wink:
It might seem that it’s 50Wh, but the mAh rating is of the battery itself, which is running at 3.7V and then stepped up to 5V. They advertise the battery’s real, internal capacity because that just makes sense when you’re charging a phone :slight_smile: If you have a phone with 2000mAh battery and buy a 2000mAh power bank, you can expect it to fully recharge your smartphone and remain empty after that (of course while the phone is off). If it was measured under 5V, the power bank would read something like 1480mAh, which just makes the maths more complicated.


37000Wh would have been too good. Instant-buy :smiley:


Here are my personal reasons why I have chosen the OmniCharge 20 for my own use case.

Please don’t read it if you are not interested!
I also don’t need or ask for any approval or confirmation here.
It is my choice and I feel confident about it.
You want to do something different – feel free!

For me the Omnicharge 20 is the most versatile and secure power bank out there at the moment.
Yes I know it doesn’t carry a USB PD (Power Delivery) standard label but I don’t care about that label.

When I say secure I talk about secure against an exploding battery pack and not secure that it can’t possibly damage a device connected to it! Actually I am quite sure that I could find a way to damage pretty much any consumer electronics device out there with the Omnicharge 20 or for that matter with any other battery pack.
It might include a home made cable to do that to some devices but it can be done – I mean you can do it with a simple USB stick.


Yes basically any battery used today by electronic gadgets have the potential to explode when over-charged; connected to over-current or over-voltage or over-heated.
You can Google for exploding iPhones and other devices not to mention the well known Samsung Note cases but they are out there for many different devices.

The Omnicharge 20 has some of the most safeguards against over-voltage, over-current, over-heating and short circuit I have seen in a power bank. This is true for the input and output.
It also has pretty much the most options to charge devices from it that you could find in a power bank.

AC-Outlet (110V-240V 50-60Hz output depending if you get the US or Europe model)
Which can be used with pretty much any delivered power supply of any gadget without any risk to void any warranty since it is the same as plugging it into the power outlet at home.

HVDC-Outlet (150V or 300V DC depending if you get the US or Europe model)
I know this sound scary to many people but this should work with all switching power supplies made for 110V-240V. Which are most power supplies delivered today (or for many years) with electronics.

Direct-DC-Out-Port (adjustable from 1V – 24V with 0.1V accuracy and up to 3.5A / 70W max)
This can replace most power supplies out there and would charge a laptop, tablet or phone directly. This port has maybe the highest potential to blow up you devices if you for example set it to 20V when the device can only take 9V and the device has no build in safe guards itself against over-voltage.

USB-Port 1 (standard 5V USB port with up to 3A / 15W)
This will charge anything USB.

USB-Port 2 (Qualcomm Quick Charge 3 Port 3.6V-20V in 200mV increments; 5V/3A; 9V/2A; 12V/1.5A)
This will charge any QC compatible device and also many standard USB devices since QC falls back to 5V/3A if it doesn’t get the answer it expects from the device which makes it another standard USB port. Yes yes this can also potentially damage some devices if they actually are ‘smart’ and give a non compatible answer back which might cause the port to step up to potentially 20V.

Qi Wireless charging (5V/1A Qi Standard)
This charges any Qi wireless device like many wireless charging phones.

Power Input through 5.5mm Barrel-Port (4.5V – 36V and up to 3A and 45W max)
This means the Onmicharge does charge from nearly any power source out there as long as you can connect it to the barrel port which is a very common port for small power supplies or via USB to barrel port cable, Solar panels mostly have that barrel port you can get car chargers with barrel port, laptop chargers with barrel port, …

My use cases:
Lenovo Yoga 2 laptop: charging through AC-Port or HVDC-Port with the Lenovo power supply; charging through the DC-Port with a barrel Port to Lenovo Square cable; charging the Onmicharge with the Lenovo power supply with a Lenovo Square to Barrel port adapter; charging the Onmicharge via a USB port on the Yoga 2.

Surface 3 Pro: charging through AC-Port or HVDC-Port; charging through DC-Port; charging the Omnicharge through the Microsoft power supply USB-Port or through the Surface USB Port.

Eve V: charging via AC-Port or HVDC-Port; charging through DC port with a barrel to USB C cable which Omnicharge is working on right now and will be available later this year; via standard USB port; charging the Omnicharge via USB C or USB A port; charging the Omnicharge via the power supply via USB C to barrel port adapter.

Motorola X Pure Phone: charging through either USB Port with Quickcharge or not; charging through the DC Port with a barrel to micro USB cable.

Lumia 950 Phone: charging through the standard USB port; charging with Qi wireless

Several Bluetooth headphones (Bose, Plantronics, No-Name): charging through either USB port.

Charging the Omnicharge: with the Omnicharge charger; with a solar panel when traveling on my motorbike; with diverse laptop or electronic chargers that I have flying around or find with anybody at the office or their homes; through a car charger; through USB ports from any device.

It could also run my desktop power supply if needed or power to a lamp or any other device that is below 100W that you otherwise would plug into the wall outlet. I am not sure if I ever will use it but it could be used if the need comes up in a power outage for example.

I am sure I will not use all the possibilities but in the end settle for one or two per device depending on how to optimize the selection of cables and adapters and power supplies to carry.

The Omnicharge does all this at the same time – meaning you can use all ports at the same time and even charge it at the same time. This will obviously reduce the power output across the ports since it can’t deliver above the maximum power it is design for across all ports but it is intelligent enough to adjust the port usage and charge devices while it itself is charged. All that is displayed on it’s display so you can see the inflow and outflow of energy and the temperature of the pack beside of the remaining capacity and the use time left with the current in/outflow.

They are also working on a save DC-USB C cable which will be available later this year to charge USB C devices.

So to summarize, yes it is an expensive power bank but it delivers a ton of features with safety build in and with all these features build in it is quite safe to say that the people that designed and build the Omnicharge really understand their shit and came up with the most versatile power bank out there.

As I said in the beginning I am not interested if you come to the same conclusion or not and if you think that some of these options work or not.
This is my decision and reasons why I came to this decision do with it what you want.


Do you happen to know if the inverter is a pure sine or a modified sine wave inverter?


It’s a modified sine wave


You are truly right. This is one of the best, I would say professional PowerBanks you can find.
I`ve never seen so many Protections for Input and Output. And not to forget it is, for all that, quite small and lightweight.

So you can also use it for protecting your gear while getting power from a generator against peaks and loss.

I agree that it is not for the average user, because you can mess up quite a few things and also there a definitely cheaper ones on the market.
But like you said you can charge anything that has up to 100W with it via it`s own charger or the Barrel or USB Ports. I need it for my: MacBook, iPad, iPhone, my V (via own charger) and also some network gear for my work. Also I will use it to protect some of gear while use it on outdoor festivals when getting power from untrusty Power supplys.


I’ve found a good solution which support PD and it’s also a big mass storage compatible with 3.1 usb type c standard


At first glance this doesn’t seem to deliver power on the go. It looks like it needs a socket to plug into and then connects to your PC via USB C where it charges your device and gives you access to the external hard drive over one port.
I can’t find a battery capacity anywhere so I assume it doesn’t have one and then paying 200 bucks for a 4TB hard drive that isn’t even a SSD seems very expensive to me …