Any tips for improving V battery life?


Hello all!

Long-time community member, first-time topic creator.

I’ve had my m3 V for around 6 months now I think, and it is absolutely fantastic. However, I am finding the battery life I’m getting to be slightly disappointing.

I’ve posted a few comments on various posts over the last few months about this, and the advice I got was very useful, but the results I’m getting are still not quite up to the same level as other people are reporting. So I figured why not just ask everyone directly!

First, my use case:
Honestly, embarrassingly minimal! I barely have any programs installed and use it almost solely for watching videos, browsing the web, and word processing. In terms of the number of internet tabs open at a time, rarely more than 3 or 4.

Things I’ve tried to increase battery life:
I have switched to using Edge as I suspected Chrome was one of the culprits for the lower-than-expected battery life.

I use the web-based offerings of Netflix, Amazon Video et al. as opposed to the downloadable versions.

I downloaded Intel XTU and turned the machine down to 4.5W – there’s a better term for that I know, but whilst I love gadgets I am not that knowledgeable with their inner workings (also I think I did this successfully, I will try and remember to post a screenshot when I get home later).

I have brightness down at either 0% or, at max, 25% all the time. My V is always in tablet mode unless I specifically need to use the physical keyboard, and battery saver mode. Bluetooth is always off.

Basically, I think I’ve tried all the various suggestions I’ve read on the forum.

However, despite implementing all these potential solutions I am still “only” getting at max 6:30 hours according to BatteryBar. Maybe I’m being greedy and expecting too much, but I’ve definitely seen posts/comments from people consistently achieving 8-9 hours with what sounds like a much higher workload than myself.

I would be grateful for any tips/tricks which may help get the battery life up!



Check out this thread

TDP setting shouldnt matter in light use, because the CPU wont get to the situation where the TDP limitation is applied (sustained load).

Dont quote me on this but if I remember correctly, XTU itself hogs the CPU a bit, so you can gain an extra hour of battery life just by getting rid of XTU.

I also have the m3 model and it can easily get over 8 hours, reaching 13 hours in lighter loads (no audio/video).


I’ve seen (and read) that thread previously and it was really helpful – thank you for putting it together!

However, I’m pretty sure I’ve already implemented everything mentioned in it, so not sure why I’m still getting such (comparatively) low battery life. I was still getting around 6:30 even before installing XTU so not sure how much it is affecting the battery – and reducing TDP definitely doesn’t look to have done anything.


As a student i can confidently say mt m7/i7 1T V lasts me from about 8:30am to somewhere between 1:30-2:30pm. Just falling short of a average school day and loads.


1:30 pm means 13:30.That means it works only for 5 hours? damn short


Okay my guess here is that your usage simply is more power hungry than you think it should be - keep in mind, it’s really hard to just do a straight up comparison of usage between users:

“Medium office work” might just mean having a bunch of documents or Spreadsheets open (not too much load on the cpu) - as opposed to “light browsing / streaming” in which your cpu boosts every time you click something (which is kind of the point of Intel turbo boost.)

So I can’t think of much, but like Patrick said, lowering the PL1 in XTU from 7 to 4.5 shouldn’t make too much of a difference in your use case - but you could try lowering PL2 from 15 to 9 as well. That might help, since yours sounds like a more bursty workload.

Also if you’re concerned about Intel XTU sucking battery (which it does like a champ if you leave it open btw), you don’t have to keep the program running. Iirc there’s a background service that keeps your changes, you only need to run it to reapply if/when the computer shuts down improperly/crashes. Your tweaks should persist otherwise.


Weird I get 8 hours when I use it at my summer IT job with set at better performance, 25-40 brightness, chrome tabs (4-6) being refreshed /used every 5 - 10 minutes, backlight on whole time. I didnt use touch screen that much this day, didn’t use pen at all


Like that’s @suggested/darker brightness in battery saver mode with 8-20 chrome tabs open, Onenote recording audio and writing with the MS surface pen w/ bluetooth on, spotify open sometimes in the backgrond (not playing cuase it’s blocked), sidesync occasionally running, 1 word page open, micro sd card in reader, wifi enabled (5ghz). Pretty bog standard workload… but sometimes i need to do CAD and the decrease the battery life alot.


I got the i5 and used Throttlestop to undervolt -75mv on CPU and CPU cache, haven’t tested battery life yet, but less voltage=less power=more battery life. I also setup Throttlestop to run on windows startup by configuring a Windows Scheduler Task, so I can get it to start up with Windows and apply the undervolting profile in the background.

Let me know if anyone is interested in how to do it, and I’ll see if I can’t find the guides I used.


Hi, Im super interested, especially the Scheduler bit. Btw is it compatible with Connected Standby?


hi there,

my i7 512gb version has no problems to last around 9hrs in light use (doing excel stuff & mails with enough brightness to easily read while sitting outside, costs about 5-6W).

i also only use edge and have activated the energy save mode most of the time.

to get a feeling what activities cost you most of your battery life you should monitor your energy usage. i recommend batterycare, it’s free and you also get a nice task bar symbol that tells you the approx. time until energy runs out.

using cloud apps and anti virus tools kills your battery way faster, as they are always causing a lot of wifi, cpu and ssd activity. this is also the reason why the detachables at my work are not very liked as all the stuff running in the background drain the battery from 100 to zero in only 2-3hrs.

and keep windows and apps up to date while your tablet is plugged. yesterday my V almost ran out of energy after 4 hrs because it was downloading and installing the 1803 spring update.


I think you’ve hit the nail on the head with that one – seems I had definitely misjudged how power hungry just watching videos can be

I will definitely give this a go this evening and see what the impact is over the next week or so – thanks!


Hmm if its related to video, you may try to update the GPU driver. Maybe they updated/optimized the codec somehow.

Get it straight from Intel btw, I dont know how outdated Eve’s version is, at this point.


I think this is the guide I followed. You might want to make the task start at “User Logon” as that means it will start even if the computer just returns from sleep. With the way I’ve done it the process survives sleeping and waking.

I also uploaded my task scheduler task here if you wanna skip the hassle(It’s safe, but you’ll have to take my word on that). Just download throttlestop and put the files in “ProgramFiles/Throttlestop” (you’ll have to create the “Throttlestop” folder yourself.

Also some settings in Throttlestop itself must be set. Specifically the “Task Bar” option must be unticked

And check the “Start minimized” and “Minimize on Close”

In order to get to the undervolting settings click on “FIVR”(Fully Integrated Voltage Regulator) on the main page, then check the “Unlock Adjustable Voltage”

Set CPU and cache to same voltage. You can try some on Intel GPU as well, but I haven’t gotten any significant results even if I took off -250mv, so I think it’s bugged somehow.

Here’s a guide on Throttlestop which will be useful to explain everything.


Just FYI to anyone trying this, you’ll have to tweak the number to find what works for you. For reference, iirc Xify (also i5) managed an undervolt of -70mv and on my i7 the undervolt is around -60mv.

One suggestion is to start at -100mv and work your way up, or you can start around -70mv and go up or down depending on what happens instead.


Yup, that’s right. Every CPU will have different voltages that they can operate stable on. For 7th gen Y-series processors I’d say start at -50mv and then go downwards with -5mv each time. Check stability by running a stress test like the one included in Throttlestop or Prime95.

Also, for those wondering, you won’t lose any performance. As the processor still runs at the same clock speeds, but at lower voltage. It can in fact increase performance as the CPU will produce less heat and the CPU can therefore manage a boost for a longer time.